Una Regatta – Rafting Bosnia’s Emerald River

If I had to choose my favorite part of my homeland, apart from my hometown of Tešanj, I honestly wouldn’t know what to pick. Everywhere I go, I end up amazed by the natural beauty around me.

There is something special about exploring your own country. You speak the same language, eat the same food, and share the same traditions, yet every region has its own little quirks. Sometimes it’s a different word for the exact same thing. Other times it’s a food combination that makes perfect sense in one part of the country and absolutely none in another.

Take krompiruša, for example — a traditional Bosnian potato pie. In some places, people add Vegeta seasoning to it. In others, that idea would probably start an argument at the dinner table. And I would be sitting right at that table. Sorry, not sorry.

Una – One and Only

One of the most beautiful parts of Bosnia and Herzegovina is undoubtedly the area around the Una River — the one and only.

The river flows through the western part of the country, along the border with Croatia.

According to a popular legend, the river got its name during the Roman campaigns against the Japodes, an Illyrian tribe that inhabited this region. When the Roman soldiers first reached the riverbanks, they were stunned by its beauty. One of them supposedly exclaimed, “Una! Una! Una!” — meaning “one” or “the only one” in Latin. In just three letters, he captured everything the river represented.

Another local legend tells the story of a wounded Roman legionary who found himself near the source of the Una. Exhausted and injured, he sat by the water and saw a young woman. Believing her to be a river fairy, because he had never seen such beauty before, he watched as she approached him.

She cared for his wounds, gave him water to drink, washed his face, and allowed him to rest with his head in her lap. The young legionary had captured her heart as much as she had captured his. Wanting to help him recover, she shared the secrets of Japodian medicine, based on the healing herbs that grew in this fertile land.

As his wounds healed, their love blossomed. In time, they had a daughter with beautiful emerald-green eyes. The proud father gently lifted the child into the air and cried out:

“Una! Una! Una!”

The echo rolled through the river valley and its canyons. Some say it can still be heard today in the roar of the river’s foaming rapids.

And so, the emerald river — the queen of all rivers — received its name.

For centuries, the Una has been a source of life for the people who lived along its banks. It provided fish, powered watermills that ground grain, and supported settlements built directly on the water. The Japodes, who inhabited this region more than 3,000 years ago, were especially known for their stilt houses built above rivers and wetlands.

The river has also been an endless source of inspiration. Poets have written about it, artists have painted it, and generations have passed down stories about its beauty.

Today, in a world where life is much easier than it once was, the Una continues to provide livelihoods through tourism and outdoor adventure.

The locals know exactly how valuable the river is, and they care deeply about protecting it. You can feel that pride in every conversation. Everyone seems eager to share a story, an interesting fact, or a favorite memory connected to the Una. In recognition of its natural and cultural importance, the area surrounding the river was declared Una National Park (Nacionalni park Una) in 2008.

Una National Park

The mission of Una National Park is to protect the region’s biodiversity and cultural heritage while promoting sustainable tourism, recreation, and outdoor sports. At the same time, it aims to create opportunities for local communities to develop and thrive in harmony with nature.

Visitors can explore the park through activities such as cycling, rafting, kayaking, and hiking.

Rafting had always sounded appealing to me, so when a friend suggested that we go, I immediately said yes.

The highlight of rafting on the Una is undoubtedly the Una Regatta, an event known not only throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina but across the wider region as well.

Founded in 1964, the regatta has grown into one of the country’s most famous outdoor events, attracting participants from all over Europe. Every year, more people join the adventure.

This year, the 52nd International Una Regatta will take place from July 22 to July 25.

To Understand the Una, You First Need to Understand Bosnian(s)

A few years ago, we joined the Una Regatta for the first time. We enjoyed it so much that we kept coming back year after year.

The Una Regatta is much more than a sporting event. Alongside the rafting, there is always a rich cultural and entertainment program. It is the perfect place to spend time with old friends and make new ones.

It is also a place where you can experience Bosnian humor, finally begin to understand ćejf and merak, and meet the people of Krajina — known for being sharp-tongued but warm-hearted.

In Bosnian, Krajina comes from the word kraj, meaning “end” or “border.” Historically, it refers to the borderland region of northwestern Bosnia. Living for centuries on the frontiers of different empires shaped the people who call it home. They became known for their courage, directness, resourcefulness, and fierce loyalty to family and friends. Borders may have changed throughout history, but the people of Krajina remained the same.

Bosnians have a special gift for finding reasons to laugh, even when life doesn’t offer many.

Our humor is often self-deprecating, never mean-spirited, and rarely forced. It is spontaneous, usually arriving as a quick remark at exactly the right moment. It can be difficult to translate because it is deeply connected to everyday life. To understand it, you first need to understand the people behind it.

Be open. Let Bosnians tell you the story their way, and little by little, you’ll start to get it.

And perhaps that is why, in Bosnia, you can sit down for a coffee with complete strangers and feel like part of the group within minutes.

We don’t simply drink coffee; we ćejf it.

We sit with it for hours. We talk. We watch the world go by.

Ćejf is the ability to enjoy life’s small moments without rushing. Like drinking coffee. Like watching a river flow by. It is the art of being fully present in the moment.

And that brings us to merak.

Merak is that feeling of deep contentment when everything feels exactly as it should be and, for a moment, you realize you need nothing more.

That is why merak is one of the most beautiful Bosnian words. It is not quite happiness, not quite peace, and not quite satisfaction — yet somehow it is all of those things at once.

You create ćejf.

You feel merak.

The International Una Regatta

The Una Regatta lasts four days (July 22–26), with three rafting stages spread over three days on the river.

A few weeks before the event, basic registration information becomes available on the Una National Park website.

Most participants join through authorized rafting agencies, which are also listed on the park’s website. These agencies provide licensed skippers, safety equipment (helmets and life jackets), and guide participants through the entire process.

In addition to the fee paid to the rafting agency, participants must also pay a registration fee of 50 BAM (approximately €25). This fee includes meals in the camps and during breaks, insurance, transportation of camping equipment and luggage while we are on the river, safety services, concerts, and other activities organized throughout the regatta.

Day One – Gathering by the River

The first day begins in the camp near Martin Brod (Map No. 1).

Our hosts welcomed us and gave us a short introduction to the adventure ahead. After dinner, we pitched our tents and enjoyed the opening ceremony and evening program.

The concert ended late, and sometime after midnight we returned to our tents.

Too excited to sleep, I found myself scrolling through stories about the area and came across the legend of Marta.

According to local tradition, Marta was a young woman who had fallen in love with a man living on the opposite side of the river. Their relationship was not approved of, but they always found ways to meet and enjoy their time together.

One day, Marta crossed the river over a natural tufa barrier (natural rock formations created by the river itself) to visit her beloved. Like many people in love, they lost track of time. Hours passed, rain began to fall, and the river started to rise.

When Marta finally set off for home, the water level had become much higher. While crossing, she slipped, struck her head, and fell into the river.

Her body was later found floating downstream.

As a tribute to her memory, the place became known as Martin Brod. The word brod once referred to a crossing point used to reach the other side of the river.

Day Two – Stage One

Morning finally arrived.

I woke up to a loud voice echoing through the camp. It took me a moment to realize that we were being woken up through a loudspeaker. I smiled to myself, wondering if we had accidentally signed up for a military camp instead of a rafting trip.

After breakfast, we dismantled our tents, packed our belongings, and loaded everything onto a truck that would transport our gear to the next campsite.

The final safety checks were underway. The raft was ready. Everyone had a helmet, a life jacket, and a paddle. Most importantly, we were all armed with smiles, excitement, and good music. A reliable speaker is an absolute must-have on the Una Regatta.

Slowly, we began paddling downstream while taking in the incredible scenery surrounding us.

You will probably learn another Bosnian word here: veslaj.

It means “paddle!” and it is by far the word you will hear most often from your skipper as you navigate rapids, waterfalls, and tufa barriers.

By the second day, nobody needs a translation anymore.

Our first longer break—for lunch, a well-deserved coffee, and a chance to stretch our legs—was in Kulen Vakuf. (Map No. 2)

After several hours on the water, I sat in the shade beside the river, took off my rafting shoes, and felt pure rahatluk.

Rahat is another beautiful Bosnian word. It describes that wonderful feeling when everything feels exactly right, and nothing is bothering you.

After a short break, we continued toward Štrbački Buk (Map No. 3).

People often describe it as the highlight of the entire journey.

Before visiting, I didn’t even know what the word buk meant. The first time I heard it, I thought people were saying vuk — “wolf” in Bosnian — and I spent several minutes wondering what exactly we were supposed to do about the wolves.

As it turns out, buk is an old Slavic word used for a waterfall or a powerful cascade of water. As you approach Štrbački Buk, you hear it long before you see it.

The roar grows louder and louder as the Una crashes over a series of tufa barriers nearly 24 meters high. Here, the emerald river reveals its full power, creating a spectacle that many consider the most beautiful face of the Una.

At the same time, I couldn’t stop admiring the skippers.

They guided our rafts down the rapids with remarkable precision, bringing them surprisingly close to the edge of the waterfall. Some even jumped from the falls themselves.

Absolutely fascinating.

(For safety reasons, this is permitted only for professional skippers. Participants and tourists are strictly prohibited from attempting it.)

When we arrived at camp, our luggage was already waiting for us.

We pitched our tents, headed for dinner, and settled into another evening of music, games, and entertainment.

The highlight of the night was a massive bonfire burning above the campsite.

We gathered around it, listening to music, sharing stories, and looking up at a sky full of stars. Moments like these are difficult to plan and impossible to rush. They simply happen.

Day Three – Stage Two

Everyone had told us that this would be the most exciting stage of the journey.

It is filled with rapids and small waterfalls, and we were more than ready for a little adventure.

We soon arrived at Loskun Bridge, a railway bridge where the bravest participants had the opportunity to jump into the river and give their adrenaline levels an extra boost. This time, I chose to stay in the raft and watch from the audience. I’ve never really been much of a jumper.

We continued toward the Japod Islands (Map No. 4), a group of five river islands connected by wooden bridges.

The place feels peaceful and untouched.

There is something here that reminds me of sevdah. It is difficult to explain, but you recognize it when you feel it. For us, sevdah is not just a style of music. It is a state of mind. A mixture of love, longing, nostalgia, beauty, and melancholy wrapped into a single feeling.

The hospitality of the people of Krajina revealed itself once again when our skipper invited us for coffee at his family’s riverside cottage.

Since we were already passing by, we gladly accepted. We pulled the raft ashore and were welcomed by his parents, aunt, and uncle.

His uncle is Austrian, but when he first saw this place many years ago, he said that once he retired, he would move here.

And that is exactly what he did.

They served us coffee, homemade cake, and cold watermelon.

We chatted for a while, but soon it was time to continue toward Ripač (Map No. 5), where we stopped for another break.As we would say in Bosnia, we went “from one coffee to another.”

It is nice to rest.

From there, we continued toward Bihać.

Between jokes, music, and conversations, we tried not to think about how much paddling still awaited us. It was definitely the most exciting day, but also the most physically demanding.

For the final stretch before reaching Bihać, participants can sign up for a race. The first raft to reach the finish line wins. Of course, we signed up. We paddled with all our strength, armed with strategies that seemed brilliant at the time.

Unfortunately, at one point we managed to get our raft stuck on a tufa barrier.

Getting unstuck took longer than expected because the water was shallow, which meant we had to get out and lighten the raft.

Eventually, we got moving again.

Then one of our friends fell into the river. Getting him back into the raft took a while too.

Needless to say, we did not finish in first place. In fact, we were much closer to first place if you started counting from the bottom of the list.

As we approached Bihać (Map No. 6), people gathered on the bridges and along the streets to welcome us.

We waved.
They waved.
The atmosphere was incredible.

For those still hungry for adrenaline, there was also the opportunity to try blob jumping—a giant inflatable launch pad that sends people flying into the air and into the river.

Back at camp, we pitched our tents. Every day we became faster at it. A quick swim in the Una was the perfect reward.

We chose to camp throughout the entire regatta, which meant accepting some basic living conditions. These temporary camps have limited infrastructure, with few showers and toilets available.

It is something worth keeping in mind when packing. If you are planning to join the regatta, you can read more in my packing guide.

Of course, it is also possible to stay in hotels or guesthouses in nearby towns. That can be arranged through the agency organizing your trip.

Bihać traditionally hosts the biggest concert of the regatta, featuring some of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most popular bands and artists from across the region.

And somehow, every year, I find myself amazed by the welcome we receive.

Day Four – Stage Three and Closing Ceremony

After breakfast, we left Bihać and continued downstream.

Whenever we reached calmer sections of the river where paddling became more difficult, motorboats appeared, connected several rafts together, and pulled us along.

That is when the real dernek begins.

There is no perfect English translation for dernek. It is part party, part celebration, part gathering of friends, and entirely Bosnian.

The paddles are put away.

Food and drinks come out.

The music is already playing.

Soon we reached another break in Miostrah, near Cazin (Map No. 7), where diving competitions were organized.

Time passes quickly when you are surrounded by good company. Before we knew it, the break was over and we continued toward Bosanska Krupa (Map No. 8).

After several days on the river together, we already knew most of the other crews. Some of them we recognized from previous years. The jokes, teasing, and laughter followed us all the way downstream.

When we arrived in Bosanska Krupa, we received the same warm welcome as everywhere else. The entire town seems to come alive for this day. People fill the streets, bridges, cafés, and riverbanks to celebrate the arrival of the regatta. As always, a concert marked the closing ceremony.

One of the traditions is the selection of the Una Neptune and Una Mermaid. One year, those titles were awarded to members of our own group. Goran received the title of Una Neptune after bringing together a small fleet of rafts that somehow turned into a truly international team.

The title of Una Mermaid ( Unska sirena) went to Violetta, who at the time became the first participant from Peru to join the regatta.

At some point, exhaustion finally caught up with us. We pitched our tent in the town park, right in the middle of all the celebrations. Although calling it a park is not entirely accurate. The area is known as the Green Islands (Zelena ostrva), a collection of eight river islands connected by wooden bridges.

Someone brought a guitar.

The night continued with old songs, laughter, and tired voices singing along.

Exhausted, but happy.

That is merak.

That feeling that everything is exactly as it should be.

Over the course of three days, we paddled roughly 90 kilometers, with a little help from the occasional motorboat.

And I remain incredibly grateful to the people of Krajina, who always welcome us as if we were family.

They taught us to respect the river. And if you respect the river, the river will reveal its greatest treasures. Always listen to your skipper. Even places that appear calm can change surprisingly quickly.

They also taught us how to love the Una and the nature surrounding it. Throughout all ninety kilometres, the river remained remarkably clean. So did its banks.

I remember stopping near a spring where the water was so clear that we drank directly from it.

And even during the rare moments when a piece of litter floated by, the skippers instinctively paddled toward it, pulled it from the water, and placed it into the trash bags we carried in our rafts.

Leave a place better than you found it.

Perhaps that was one of the most valuable lessons of the entire regatta.

They showed visitors what it means to be a good host.

The first rays of sunlight woke me the next morning. My feelings were mixed. I was happy for another unforgettable experience and grateful to have taken part in yet another Una Regatta. But I was also sad because it was over.

Željava Underground Air Base

We packed our tents one last time and went searching for coffee and breakfast.

Before heading home, we decided to visit Željava Air Base (Map airplane), once the largest underground military airport in former Yugoslavia. Built during the 1960s, the complex included runways, barracks, and an extensive network of tunnels hidden inside the mountain. Because of its strategic location, it served as an important military and air-defence facility and remained one of Yugoslavia’s best-kept military secrets.

When the Yugoslav People’s Army withdrew during the 1990s, large sections of the base were deliberately destroyed using explosives to prevent it from being used by others.

Today, its ruins stand as a reminder of a different era.

The complex sits directly on the border between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, with most of it located on the Croatian side. Near one of the tunnel entrances stands an abandoned aircraft, now one of the most photographed spots at the site.

Željava can generally be visited independently, although those who want to truly understand its history may benefit from hiring a local guide.

Visitors should stay on marked roads and paved surfaces. Warning signs for landmines can still be seen in some areas, reminders of a more recent conflict and a good reason not to wander off the designated paths.

Long After the Paddling Ends

It is four days of sport, adventure, adrenaline, laughter, music, and surprisingly little sleep. It is learning that veslaj might be the most important Bosnian word on the river. It is discovering that coffee tastes even better after hours of paddling. It is realizing that complete strangers can start to feel like old friends after just a few days on the water.

Most of all, it is a reminder to slow down, appreciate nature, and enjoy the people around us.

Some come for the rapids.
Some come for the parties.
Some come for the beautiful scenery.

And some, like me, keep coming back for all of it.

Because there is something special about spending a few days on the Una.

You paddle, you laugh, you get wet, you sing, you collect a few new stories, and before you know it, the regatta is over.